Three things come out of Michelle Loielo's kitchen at Unica: hand-made pasta, artisan meat dishes and seafood. Everything else follows from those. It runs as an all-day Italian kitchen rather than a dinner-only restaurant, which is unusual for cooking at this level. Coffee and breakfast in the morning, a lunch that works for a quick plate or a long one, dinner in the evening — the same kitchen, the same hands, across the whole day. The seafood sits inside the menu rather than off to one side in its own section, which is the right way round this close to the water. Unica is on Point Nepean Road at Capel Sound, within easy reach of Rosebud, Rye and Tootgarook.
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