Etsu Izakaya sits behind an unassuming wooden door on Gold Coast Highway in Mermaid Beach, opening into a tunnel-like room styled around Hokusai's Great Wave, with a long bar, a giant bonsai centrepiece and a mural by local artist Mark Wilson. The menu spans the full range of Japanese izakaya dining, from sushi and sashimi to tempura and yakitori skewers, alongside dishes off the robata grill such as Moreton Bay bug with kombu butter and yuzu koshu, or beef tenderloin with sancho pepper. The drinks list runs deep into sake, shochu, Japanese whisky and plum wine, alongside Japanese-inspired cocktails, matched to the moody, neon-lit interior. It's a fitting spot for a romantic dinner for two or a livelier evening of shared plates with a larger group.
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